Our bus to Phonsavan was the only one in the bus depot and the passenger list was approximately 90% locals and 10% tourists. Glancing out the window, we could see that there were about 5 buses full of tourists only going down to Vang Vieng. Finally we were (sort of) making it off the beaten track a little bit. The bus itself was packed, and strapped to the top of it was a motorbike and about 20 big boxes of toilet paper which I found very amusing. The journey itself was NOT so amusing. We're talking 5 hours going uphill on the windiest roads that I have ever been on, being driven by a man who looked about 18 and who was more concerned about flirting with some girls than he was about the safety of the passengers. Leon was still a bit fragile from his illness so I sat there praying for most of the time that he wouldn't be sick en route (thankfully he wasn't). To make matters worse, the bus driver thought it would be fun to stick on some really loud, horrible Lao hip hop music and I believe it was at this point that I had my first pang of homesickness. Or perhaps I was just fearing for my life. Either way, we were thankful when we started driving along some flat stretch of road as we were nearing Phonsavan, and even managed to appreciate the beautiful country side which bore a very strong resemblance to the hills that you get back in England. Finally we reached Phonsavan and jumped into a van that took us into the heart of town, where we could find a guesthouse for the next 2 days.
Phonsavan is really like something out of the wild west, with a lot of dusty roads and oldish buildings, and not much else. The place was bombed heavily and as a result, they had to rebuild from scratch in the 70s so I imagine that not many places in Laos look a lot like Phonsavan. It's not pretty, but the grittiness of the place made it seem more real, and not somewhere that just catered for tourists. We settled for the Nice Hotel and were just lucky enough to catch a documentary that MAG (Mines Advisory Group)were showing that evening. The film was pretty powerful, and the statistics are pretty horrendous i.e. the Americans dropped 2 tonnes worth of bombs per Laotian during the Secret War. We retired to bed pretty early after a long journey and a pretty sombre evening, as we were off to see the Plain of Jars bright and early the next day.
We visited all three sites within the Plain of Jars (there are others but they haven't been fully cleared off unexploded ordinances to render them safe for tourists I think) and it really wasn't like anything else I've ever seen. Yes, they are just massive stone jars but it's the fact that we really don't know what they were used for that makes them all the more mysterious and quite fascinating. After a while of course they do start to look a little samey, but we were able to take in some beautiful scenery and some funky pictures as well (soon to be uploaded on flickr!) The tour also included a visit to a 'whisky village' where we all sampled some Lao Lao whisky (I thought it was awful) and then to see an old Russian tank as well. All in all it was a memorable experience, although hopefully in future they will do something about the road to get to Phonsavan, as I don't wish that kind of hellish journey on anyone. Given that there isn't much else on offer in Phonsavan, we decided to head down to Vang Vieng the next day, instead of going straight to Vientiane, which was our original plan. I think it was the 20 hour bus journey that put us off more than anything else and I'm glad we went, because Vang Vieng turned out to be a pretty memorable place.
Wednesday, 17 February 2010
Luang Prabang: The Illness
After a heavy night we decided to treat ourselves with a massage which definitely helped us both feel a little less fragile. The appetites soon kicked in and we sampled some fine Laos food consisting of fish cooked in banana leaf, rice and some steamed vegetables. The vegetables looked a little suspect as they still had a little bit of sand/dirt on them, but we were too hungry to care. We then decided to take a tour around Luang Prabang but this only took about an hour as it is such a small place. Definitely one of the highlights was meeting a really friendly, and quite ancient Laotian man who was selling ice cream from his little bicycle. Unfortunately the ice cream also looked a little suspect so we got rid of them once the little man rode off down the road! The hunger kicked in again and this time it was a milkshake for Leon, a chocolate cake between us and an ice lemon tea that did the trick for me. As it was coming close to sunset, we followed some people's advice and headed up Phu Si which was a hill in the centre of town that has a temple at the top where you can take in the views and the sunset over Luang Prabang. Unsurprisingly, we were met at the top by other tourists who obviously had been told the same thing or also read the same excerpt from the Lonely Planet. Still, it was rather peaceful and we got chatting to a couple from London - one of which actually used to work with Ewen and Siobhan, which goes to show that the world really is a very, very small place. As we headed down we bumped into another couple (the ones from Brighton) who invited us along to dinner with some friends in the Pizzeria down the road from where we were staying. Dinner time came along and to our disappointment, the pizzas weren't of the calibre that we are used to back at home, and instead looked like a hot quiche gone wrong. Leon ordered a vegetarian version and we have a theory that this was the source of his illness that was to come. Unfortunately from that evening and for the next 3 days Leon was not in a very good state (I won't go into detail but it involved lots of liquids, high fever and bad stomach cramps). We had to stay in Luang Prabang until he got better and fortunately after 3 days he was back to his normal self. In that time I played nurse and got a lot of reading done. We were ready to leave Luang Prabang and looked forward to visiting the Plain of Jars, which was our next destination in Laos.
Thursday, 11 February 2010
Caves and Waterfalls in Luang Prabang
When we woke up at 7 am I think we both realised that booking a day trip after a 2 day journey down the Mekong was a bit ambitious as both of us were feeling more than a little bit tired the next day. Nonetheless, being the troopers that we are, we got up, had a swift breakfast and went down to meet the others who would be joining us on our trip. We were marched down to where the boats were and again it dawned on us that we would have to go on yet another boat for about 2 hours to get to the caves. Note to self: never book a trip when you are feeling very hungry, tired and therefore not thinking straight. The boat we got on was about a metre wide and 3 metres long, holding 8 people in total. The trip in itself was quite an experience as we all thought that this thing would fall apart any minute now. Thankfully that wasn't the case. We were dropped off initially at what they called the Whisky Village which came as a surprise, given that this wasn't on our itinerary but we went with the flow and checked out the village. Sadly it was really a mini village that was designed for locals to sell their bottles of whisky (with lizards and snakes inside) and scarves, so neither one of us really felt like we wanted to be there. After an hour we finally got back on the boat and headed down to the caves, which ended up being some caves that we passed by on our journey the way before from Pak Beng.
There are two caves - one is situated up some windy steps and is known as the 'Big Cave' and without a torchlight it was rather difficult to see a lot inside it! There was a buddha and some offerings in front of it, and that was about it. Down we went to the small cave, bypassing some young kids selling little birds in cages as it was apparently good luck to release them. I thought it was really cruel, and buying them would just make the kids catch more birds, so we hotstepped it to the smaller cave to check it out. This one was filled with thousands of little and large buddha figures, as people would come to the cave to pray and leave a statue inside. It was interesting but to call it a cave was a little far fetched. However, we both appreciated that this was an important place and that people made pigrimages to the cave in the old days, so all in all we didn't feel that it had been a complete waste of time. We took in the lovely scenery again as we made our way back to the mainland, and by this point both of us were worrying profusely as we were meant to be at the agency at 12 o clock and it was already 12 30 pm!
Back in Luang Prabang we grabbed some sandwiches and our swimming gear and ran down to the agency who luckily said that we would be picked up by the minivan which would take us to the waterfall. One thing we learnt about Luang Prabang is that time means little to them, so there is never a need to panic because you will eventually get to where you need to be. In the mini van we were all quite cosy (there were 13 as opposed to the 9 that are meant to be in the van) and endured a rather bumpy ride up to the waterfall. However, when we made it to the falls we were both very glad that we made it there as they were absolutely beautiful. The main part of the waterfall was about a 15 minute walk from the main gate and when you make it up there, they are a lot bigger and higher than either of us imagined them to be. The water was a baby blue colour and as you walk down, there are certain pools that the public can swim in. We chose to swim in the largest area which had a rope that swung off a tree so that you could launch yourself into it, which was a lot of fun! I wish we had the photo to hand so that we could show everyone, but that will come (when we find an internet connection that's fast enough...)
Around 5 pm, happy and exhausted, we all drove back to Luang Prabang town and Leon and I had some dinner (vegetarian stall food which cost us a quid each) before heading to Utopia, which is a restaurant/bar place that quite a few people had raved on about.
Utopia itself is worth mentioning as it is set quite far away in a residential area, and as you walk inside you are greeted by low tables, recliners, a sandy volleyball court and an impressive view of the Mekong river. It was full of travellers and deservedly so, as I could imagine that a lot of people come here to chill out during the day and party at night. We ended up playing Giant Jenga (and currently hold the record of the highest number of levels) and met some nice people from Brighton and Norway, and ended up at the infamous Bowling Alley that is the only place in town that is open past 12 midnight. Luang Prabang has a curfew for everyone, which is midnight, which means that everyone who wants to stay up later ends up going to this bowling alley. It was raucous, packed, and full of neon lights. I have a rather hazy recollection of it but I remember NOT getting to bowl and talking to a lot of random people who we kept bumping into in town. All in all it was a fun day, and at 3 am we sheepishly knocked on our guesthouse door so that they could open up and let us tip toe off to bed.
There are two caves - one is situated up some windy steps and is known as the 'Big Cave' and without a torchlight it was rather difficult to see a lot inside it! There was a buddha and some offerings in front of it, and that was about it. Down we went to the small cave, bypassing some young kids selling little birds in cages as it was apparently good luck to release them. I thought it was really cruel, and buying them would just make the kids catch more birds, so we hotstepped it to the smaller cave to check it out. This one was filled with thousands of little and large buddha figures, as people would come to the cave to pray and leave a statue inside. It was interesting but to call it a cave was a little far fetched. However, we both appreciated that this was an important place and that people made pigrimages to the cave in the old days, so all in all we didn't feel that it had been a complete waste of time. We took in the lovely scenery again as we made our way back to the mainland, and by this point both of us were worrying profusely as we were meant to be at the agency at 12 o clock and it was already 12 30 pm!
Back in Luang Prabang we grabbed some sandwiches and our swimming gear and ran down to the agency who luckily said that we would be picked up by the minivan which would take us to the waterfall. One thing we learnt about Luang Prabang is that time means little to them, so there is never a need to panic because you will eventually get to where you need to be. In the mini van we were all quite cosy (there were 13 as opposed to the 9 that are meant to be in the van) and endured a rather bumpy ride up to the waterfall. However, when we made it to the falls we were both very glad that we made it there as they were absolutely beautiful. The main part of the waterfall was about a 15 minute walk from the main gate and when you make it up there, they are a lot bigger and higher than either of us imagined them to be. The water was a baby blue colour and as you walk down, there are certain pools that the public can swim in. We chose to swim in the largest area which had a rope that swung off a tree so that you could launch yourself into it, which was a lot of fun! I wish we had the photo to hand so that we could show everyone, but that will come (when we find an internet connection that's fast enough...)
Around 5 pm, happy and exhausted, we all drove back to Luang Prabang town and Leon and I had some dinner (vegetarian stall food which cost us a quid each) before heading to Utopia, which is a restaurant/bar place that quite a few people had raved on about.
Utopia itself is worth mentioning as it is set quite far away in a residential area, and as you walk inside you are greeted by low tables, recliners, a sandy volleyball court and an impressive view of the Mekong river. It was full of travellers and deservedly so, as I could imagine that a lot of people come here to chill out during the day and party at night. We ended up playing Giant Jenga (and currently hold the record of the highest number of levels) and met some nice people from Brighton and Norway, and ended up at the infamous Bowling Alley that is the only place in town that is open past 12 midnight. Luang Prabang has a curfew for everyone, which is midnight, which means that everyone who wants to stay up later ends up going to this bowling alley. It was raucous, packed, and full of neon lights. I have a rather hazy recollection of it but I remember NOT getting to bowl and talking to a lot of random people who we kept bumping into in town. All in all it was a fun day, and at 3 am we sheepishly knocked on our guesthouse door so that they could open up and let us tip toe off to bed.
Pak Beng to Luang Prabang: Oldie Worldie Laos
Leon being ever the efficient man that he is, managed to get us down to the boat before anyone else, and therefore secured us some front row, comfy seats as opposed to the wooden benches that latecomers would have to endure. This boat was a much bigger and newer version than the one we had been on the day before, so we both had a feeling that this ride would be more enjoyable. And we were right. The second trip to Luang Prabang was more beautiful and I didn't feel sick at all. The limestone cliffs that surrounded us as we were about 2 hours away from Luang Prabang are unforgettable, and the atmosphere on the boat was amazing - everyone was looking forward to getting to our destination, having spent almost a day and a half in total on a slow boat! We arrived in Luang Prabang on schedule (around 4 pm)and like everyone else, made our way into town to find a guesthouse to settle down in and shower after a very long journey.
We ended up on the main stretch which is a street in the old town (where most tourists flock to) that is lined with restaurants, guesthouses and has the night market down one end. The buildings were old colonnial in style, and you did feel like you were being transported back in time. Everyone is laid back, traffic isn't bad at all, and we found a lovely if not slightly expensive guesthouse to stay in (which actually felt like a hotel, for once!) with a flat screen TV and a bathroom that didn't smell like damp, at last! Happily, we cleaned up, got dressed and headed out for some dinner of rice, laap (Laotian salad) and a vegetable curry. We managed to find a travel agency that had a day trip to some famous caves and waterfall for the following day, so feeling rather happy with our quick decision making, we retired to bed to watch some tacky HBO movie (this becomes a bit of a recurring theme).
We ended up on the main stretch which is a street in the old town (where most tourists flock to) that is lined with restaurants, guesthouses and has the night market down one end. The buildings were old colonnial in style, and you did feel like you were being transported back in time. Everyone is laid back, traffic isn't bad at all, and we found a lovely if not slightly expensive guesthouse to stay in (which actually felt like a hotel, for once!) with a flat screen TV and a bathroom that didn't smell like damp, at last! Happily, we cleaned up, got dressed and headed out for some dinner of rice, laap (Laotian salad) and a vegetable curry. We managed to find a travel agency that had a day trip to some famous caves and waterfall for the following day, so feeling rather happy with our quick decision making, we retired to bed to watch some tacky HBO movie (this becomes a bit of a recurring theme).
Chiang Khong to Huay Xai, Laos and beyond
Chiang Khong, as we soon found out, really serves as a border crossing town and not much more. By around 8 pm the streets grew extremely quiet and the shops were all shut for the evening. This wasn't such a bad thing for us, given that we were pretty knackered after a long bus journey, so we decided to head down to the riverside for some supper and head to bed.
The next morning it was another early rise, and sure enough the roosters were sounding off at 6 am and we got our gear together in anticipation of our onward journey to Laos. The Mekong river looked very peaceful, and as we ate our breakfast we were both shaking our heads in disbelief that we were actually going across to Laos and to do that meant taking a small tail boat trip that lasts for a minute or so.
At the other side, in Laos that is, we arrived in Huay Xai which is again the equivalent of Chiang Khong i.e. a border town and not much else. Being Malaysian, I for once had the privilege of not having to queue or pay for a visa whereas Leon had to go through some formalities of purchasing a visa before being able to carry on with the journey. This should have been a simple affair that lasted 15 minutes maximum, but the system was so shocking because, frankly, there was no system. People turned up in their boats, handed over passports and documents, and waited for what seemed like a lifetime whilst the border officials manually filled in some information onto a computer database before processing the visas. Eventually, after about 1 hr 30 minutes, Leon's name was called out and we were allowed to leave the 'immigration area'.
The next part of the trip was one that we had both been looking forward to. That is, the slow boat down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. We jumped into a tuk tuk and made our way to the other pier where we found our boat and luckily secured some seats towards the front. This was at 9 am. Little did we know that the boat wouldn't leave until it was full, and that ended up being at 12 30 pm! However, we had been warned about the poor timekeeping in Laos and the acronym PDR or Please Don't Rush, so instead we befriended a lovely German lady who was on a cycling trip in Laos, as well as some crazy Belgian guys (who weren't crazy, they were good fun but very lively!) and settled in for the trip. Finally we set off around midday and with the stunning scenery and gentle sway of the boat, we both felt extremely lucky to be able to do this trip. Unfortunately I started feeling a little ill towards the end of the 8 hour journey ( I think that this was due to sitting sideways to the direction of travel) but luckily kept it together until we reached Pak Beng. There isn't a lot to say about Pak Beng, it really serves as a stopover in the middle of nowhere for people going to Luang Prabang! We all managed to stay in what seemed like a nice-ish guesthouse for 260 Baht but both Leon and I felt like there were some unwanted creepy crawlies in our beds at night. Oh well, that's all part of the fun, I guess... Another early night after a fairly decent meal and we were up again at 6 am to secure more comfortable seats for our onward journey the next day to Luang Prabang.
The next morning it was another early rise, and sure enough the roosters were sounding off at 6 am and we got our gear together in anticipation of our onward journey to Laos. The Mekong river looked very peaceful, and as we ate our breakfast we were both shaking our heads in disbelief that we were actually going across to Laos and to do that meant taking a small tail boat trip that lasts for a minute or so.
At the other side, in Laos that is, we arrived in Huay Xai which is again the equivalent of Chiang Khong i.e. a border town and not much else. Being Malaysian, I for once had the privilege of not having to queue or pay for a visa whereas Leon had to go through some formalities of purchasing a visa before being able to carry on with the journey. This should have been a simple affair that lasted 15 minutes maximum, but the system was so shocking because, frankly, there was no system. People turned up in their boats, handed over passports and documents, and waited for what seemed like a lifetime whilst the border officials manually filled in some information onto a computer database before processing the visas. Eventually, after about 1 hr 30 minutes, Leon's name was called out and we were allowed to leave the 'immigration area'.
The next part of the trip was one that we had both been looking forward to. That is, the slow boat down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. We jumped into a tuk tuk and made our way to the other pier where we found our boat and luckily secured some seats towards the front. This was at 9 am. Little did we know that the boat wouldn't leave until it was full, and that ended up being at 12 30 pm! However, we had been warned about the poor timekeeping in Laos and the acronym PDR or Please Don't Rush, so instead we befriended a lovely German lady who was on a cycling trip in Laos, as well as some crazy Belgian guys (who weren't crazy, they were good fun but very lively!) and settled in for the trip. Finally we set off around midday and with the stunning scenery and gentle sway of the boat, we both felt extremely lucky to be able to do this trip. Unfortunately I started feeling a little ill towards the end of the 8 hour journey ( I think that this was due to sitting sideways to the direction of travel) but luckily kept it together until we reached Pak Beng. There isn't a lot to say about Pak Beng, it really serves as a stopover in the middle of nowhere for people going to Luang Prabang! We all managed to stay in what seemed like a nice-ish guesthouse for 260 Baht but both Leon and I felt like there were some unwanted creepy crawlies in our beds at night. Oh well, that's all part of the fun, I guess... Another early night after a fairly decent meal and we were up again at 6 am to secure more comfortable seats for our onward journey the next day to Luang Prabang.
Wednesday, 3 February 2010
Chiang Rai Hill Trek Day 3: Waterfall and on to Chiang Khong
We woke up in the garden shed feeling a little itchy and extremely sleepy. Leon informed me that he had about 2 hours sleep, as he kept feeling himself getting bitten throughout the night. I went straight to the shower and despite it being cold, I was happy to be clean once again! We had another breakfast of rice, fish, vegetables and omelette, packed out things and said farewell to Aunty Anne, who I was actually growing very fond of. We left the Akha village and headed for another village which was again a really good walk, with amazing views of the forest and not much else, although we did start walking on roads as opposed to jungle trails. We made it the other village where we sat and watched a presentation on the villages in the surrounding area, and were surprised to see that all seven of them were pretty close together but didn't mingle at all.
Afterwards, we again learned more about the tribes and their way of life in the Hilltribe Museum. After this brief bit of education, Leon, Jahe and I walked up to the final part of our trek, which was the waterfall. I wasn't expecting the waterfall to be that forceful but it was really powerful and extremely cold to swim in! Leon let me try out the water first (what a gentleman) and after I gave him the thumbs up, we both set about swimming and walking around in the waterfall, which we had all to ourselves. Jahe made like a cat and slept in the sunshine while we swam, and once we were suitably chilly enough, we decided to follow suit and laid out on the rocks and soaked up some sun. The appetites kicked in and Jahe handed over our lunches to us which consisted of chicken, rice and vegetables wrapped in a banana leaf. The meat looked very tough and dubious so Leon and I tried to politely poke at it for a while and stuck to the rice and veg. It wasn't anything to write home about but it did the trick. After 3 hours of waterfall and sunbathing, we made our way back to the previous village to wait for our pick up truck to take us back to Chiang Rai. All in all we had a fun and memorable time trekking, and when we said bye to Jahe back at our guesthouse, Leon and I felt like we were saying goodbye to a family member that we were just getting to know. As someone once said, travelling is the saddest of all pleasures and I think we both understood the meaning of that when we waved goodbye to the lovely Jahe.
However, we quickly had to put our sadness aside and get back into the swing of things as we had a bus to catch to Chiang Khong. After a swift change of clothes, a few minutes on the internet and with the help of the lady who ran our guesthouse, we had booked a room in Chiang Khong for the night and needed to get the last bus there!
The tuk tuk arrived and whisked us off to the bus station in good time. A few days before hand we had spoken to a very kind lady who worked there who informed us that we had until 5pm to get the last bus. We were looking around for her in the station and then I heard someone say 'here, here Chiang Khong bus!'. We looked up at the buses and she was there, waving at us with a beaming smile on her face. I couldn't believe she had remembered us! We were the last ones on the bus and literally left a minute after we got on it. Sometimes the timing works out perfectly, and in this instance it really had.
Now usually I wouldn't describe a bus but this local bus is worth talking about. It was probably about 30 years old, with actually desk fans hooked up to the ceiling, and bright red seats that were designed to fit on 3 people on each. The floor of the bus was wooden and held together by a couple of rusty nails, and the interior was green, yellow and red, which made it look like a Jamaican party bus! Bizarrely, the bus also had a flat screen 21 inch plasma TV, and halfway through the journey the driver thought it would be fun to stick on some Thai Karaoke music videos. I lost count but I think I watched 10 or 12 of those in a row, and every single one had the same theme... guy cheats on girlfriend, girlfriend is very upset when she sees him with another girl, guy apologizes but doesn't look like he cares that he has been caught, girlfriend hands him back a heart shaped locket on a necklace. After 5 hours on this bus, we finally made it to Chiang Khong in the early evening.
Afterwards, we again learned more about the tribes and their way of life in the Hilltribe Museum. After this brief bit of education, Leon, Jahe and I walked up to the final part of our trek, which was the waterfall. I wasn't expecting the waterfall to be that forceful but it was really powerful and extremely cold to swim in! Leon let me try out the water first (what a gentleman) and after I gave him the thumbs up, we both set about swimming and walking around in the waterfall, which we had all to ourselves. Jahe made like a cat and slept in the sunshine while we swam, and once we were suitably chilly enough, we decided to follow suit and laid out on the rocks and soaked up some sun. The appetites kicked in and Jahe handed over our lunches to us which consisted of chicken, rice and vegetables wrapped in a banana leaf. The meat looked very tough and dubious so Leon and I tried to politely poke at it for a while and stuck to the rice and veg. It wasn't anything to write home about but it did the trick. After 3 hours of waterfall and sunbathing, we made our way back to the previous village to wait for our pick up truck to take us back to Chiang Rai. All in all we had a fun and memorable time trekking, and when we said bye to Jahe back at our guesthouse, Leon and I felt like we were saying goodbye to a family member that we were just getting to know. As someone once said, travelling is the saddest of all pleasures and I think we both understood the meaning of that when we waved goodbye to the lovely Jahe.
However, we quickly had to put our sadness aside and get back into the swing of things as we had a bus to catch to Chiang Khong. After a swift change of clothes, a few minutes on the internet and with the help of the lady who ran our guesthouse, we had booked a room in Chiang Khong for the night and needed to get the last bus there!
The tuk tuk arrived and whisked us off to the bus station in good time. A few days before hand we had spoken to a very kind lady who worked there who informed us that we had until 5pm to get the last bus. We were looking around for her in the station and then I heard someone say 'here, here Chiang Khong bus!'. We looked up at the buses and she was there, waving at us with a beaming smile on her face. I couldn't believe she had remembered us! We were the last ones on the bus and literally left a minute after we got on it. Sometimes the timing works out perfectly, and in this instance it really had.
Now usually I wouldn't describe a bus but this local bus is worth talking about. It was probably about 30 years old, with actually desk fans hooked up to the ceiling, and bright red seats that were designed to fit on 3 people on each. The floor of the bus was wooden and held together by a couple of rusty nails, and the interior was green, yellow and red, which made it look like a Jamaican party bus! Bizarrely, the bus also had a flat screen 21 inch plasma TV, and halfway through the journey the driver thought it would be fun to stick on some Thai Karaoke music videos. I lost count but I think I watched 10 or 12 of those in a row, and every single one had the same theme... guy cheats on girlfriend, girlfriend is very upset when she sees him with another girl, guy apologizes but doesn't look like he cares that he has been caught, girlfriend hands him back a heart shaped locket on a necklace. After 5 hours on this bus, we finally made it to Chiang Khong in the early evening.
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