Tuesday, 25 May 2010

10th Feb 2010: Another day in Ha Long Bay

It was precisely 6 am when the drizzling began that morning, and at this exact time the alarm went off telling us to get out of bed and ready for some sea kayaking. Truth be told, the last thing I wanted to do that morning was get into a kayak and paddle around in freezing cold water, but of course this was a once in a lifetime opportunity and there was no way I would let my laziness take over.
Everyone gathered at the top deck looking distinctly sleepy-eyed but soon perked up as the boat pulled up beside a floating kayak centre in the middle of these massive limestone rocks.
Leon and I grabbed one of the newer looking kayaks (safety first!) and gently tested the waters. Once we got our paddling in sync it was incredible being able to meander around the karsts, stopping by some small caves to admire the sheer beauty of them. It started to brighten up a little as time passed and overall we had a lot of fun kayaking in the water. Nothing like some early morning exercise to get the blood flowing! After our 45 minutes were up, we all happily climbed back onboard the boat and were instructed by our tour guide to get ready for breakfast quickly as we were behind schedule. He was one of the most passively aggressive people we had ever come across as a group, so not to make him really angry we did as we were told and swiftly showered before heading up to breakfast.
When we got upstairs, what we were greeted with was one of the most hilarious moments on the trip. Sat in front of the TV were all the crew of the boat, watching some form of Vietnamese soft porn! I thought I could hear some dodgy sounds when I was in the shower but I thought I had been imagining things. Nope, at 8 o clock in the morning, as we sat having some fried eggs and bread, the guys on the boat thought it would be appropriate to watch some pornography. Whatever floats your boat, as the saying goes.
After an entertaining breakfast, we sailed on a little and took in the views once again, before saying goodbye to the others on our boat. Leon and I had to stay on the boat and they had an extra day as part of their package, which entailed staying on Cat Ba Island for the night.
The journey back was more beautiful than the previous day because the sun had thankfully decided to come out just for us. Once back on shore, we had a bit of a wait before we were ushered onto yet another minibus for our journey back to Hanoi. En route we stopped at a hotel which seemed to just cater for bus loads of tourists on their way back to Hanoi, with four floors full of hungry foreigners. We were fed some fried fish, rice, soup, spring rolls and omelette (the usual fare) which was bland but filled us up for the next few hours. Leon and I were both a little worried that we were pushing it a little as we had a train to catch that evening down to Hue, but had to pick up our rucksacks from the travel agency first. Despite the pretty horrific traffic on the way back, mainly as we approached Hanoi, we luckily made it on time to the agency and they kindly called a legal taxi for us to take us to Hanoi Railway Station. I say legal taxi because the taxis around Hanoi are notorious for fleecing tourists by speeding up their meters, so we were happy to wait for one of the government cabs who wouldn’t dream of doing that (in case they get found and sent to prison, then who knows what...)
Our train pulled up at the platform just after we had purchased some food for our journey: can of coke, check. Bag of crisps, check. Some funny coconut bun, check. We boarded the train and took time to inspect our cabin. It had two triple bunk beds in each one on our carriage, with air con and a window, with about 70 centimetres between the bunks for you to walk around (or just about turn around) in. After the brief wave of claustrophobia passed, we climbed up to our individual beds (we were both on the two top bunks) and could just about sit up. Leon, being taller than me, somewhat resembled the Hunchback of Notre Dame in the way that he was sitting! It was comfortable though and compared to long distance coach rides, much more pleasant and easier to get some sleep on a sleeper train. The only annoying part of the trip was realising that our tickets said that the price of the bunk was considerably cheaper than what we had paid the travel agent. Scrap that, we weren’t annoyed – we were fuming. I am pleased to say that this was the one and only time that we were royally ripped off in Vietnam but definitely would recommend everyone who visits Vietnam to watch out for scams like this.
After a long day, we were both shattered so it was off to bed nice and early. Luckily for us, the other people in the cabin were all part of a family going home for Chinese New Year and were decent folks so I was able to have a fairly peaceful sleep, save for the few bumps on the track along the way.

9th Feb 2010: Ha Long Bay, Viet Nam

Ha Long Bay. I had been looking forward to this day since I saw my first poster of Ha Long Bay many years ago as a young teenager. The one with all the grand limestone rocks emerging from the emerald green water with a beautiful boat serenely drifting down the middle of it all. This was definitely a day that I hoped would live up to expectations, and in a lot of ways it did.
We started the day in a bit of a foul mood as we had to traipse all the way down to the travel agent with our heavy rucksacks at 7 in the morning, only to find that there was no one there, although the door was unlocked. As Leon went off on a mission to find us breakfast, I sat in the office thinking that my worst nightmare had come true, that is, that we had been part of a scandal, paid the money for the Ha Long Bay trip, only for the agent to have run off with it and here we were, left in the dark with no means of visiting the Bay. Fortunately my paranoia was just that, as 30 minutes later the man did show up and a little while later so did the minibus to take us down to Ha Long City.
As is very much the norm in South East Asia, our minibus did the rounds at all the guesthouses and hotels picking up more people for the trip and packing us all in like sardines in a tin. However, this didn’t stop us from feeling the excitement as we approached Ha Long Bay, nor did the dark clouds and grey sky that were looming, After disembarking we were put into two groups and luckily for us, Leon and I were put in a group of people who were really fun, down to earth and were overall a great crowd to spend a night on the boat with.
We boarded our boat and even though it wasn’t as luxurious as the brochure suggested (they never are anyway), it was a little bit like a pirate ship with a Vietnamese crew who were pretty much like modern day mercenaries, so all in all we were very happy indeed. Although the sun wasn’t out, the views were as spectacular as I imagined. Huge pinnacles of limestone were randomly dotted about in the sea and as we meandered through them, we were also served a hearty lunch of fish, vegetables, chicken, spring rolls and fruit which was much needed after the long journey there. To break up the day, we were dropped off at some spectacular caves in which there were some stalagmites resembling Margaret Thatcher, as well as one that looked a lot like a woman’s breast. After lots of picture taking we went back to the boat and just chilled by playing cards and having a few drinks whilst taking in the views. We retired to our little cabin after some supper and more cards, ready for the next day which we were told would involve some sea kayaking at 6 am!

Tuesday, 13 April 2010

8th Feb 2010: Crazy, Crazy Hanoi

The following day we started early to make the most of our short stay in Hanoi and headed down for our free breakfast in anticipation. Sadly there was no buffet consisting of a selection of pastries, an egg station or fried noodles; instead our host Mr Jimmy sat us down and his staff presented us with 4 fried eggs (we didn’t ask for these but the gesture was kind enough), a plate piled up high with bread which was equivalent to a whole loaf, as well as some spread and a huge jar of jam which was a suspiciously bright shade of pink and tasted of sugar and not so much of strawberry.
After forcing ourselves to eat as much as possible (it was free after all), we were then subjected to a 20 minute-long lecture by Mr Jimmy outlining what we should do with our 4 weeks in Vietnam! However, he was really just trying to help us out and also sell as many of his own tours as possible, which is the norm in Vietnam, so with polite nods and uhmmings of ‘we’ll go away and have a think about it’, Leon and I made a dash for it and headed down on foot to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.

Now by this time we were well into the later part of the morning which meant one thing: it was absolutely boiling outside. Not wanting to spend money unnecessarily, we braved the heat and the deadly traffic and walked for about half an hour until we made it eventually to the Mausoleum and Museum complex. Unfortunately we didn’t read the small print in the Lonely Planet which tells you that the Mausoleum is closed at lunchtime on Mondays. And what day was it? Correct. Monday. Instead we headed into the Museum which was fairly interesting, outlining the events that lead up to Vietnam War and HCM’s role as leader, but again lady luck was not on our side and we were promptly kicked out of the Museum after 40 minutes for them to close it down for the lunchbreak again.
Given that there was nothing in the vicinity for us to see or do, we decided to venture into town (which was another 30 mins in the direction we had just come from) to the Old Quarter to book our boat trip to Halong Bay. I’d highly discourage anyone from walking in the midday sun in Vietnam or anywhere for that fact, as we were both very flustered and just a bit irritable after what felt like a morning of walking for no reason! We made it to a tour agency which seemed legit (we’ll come to that later) and booked our trip for the following day, as well as our train ticket and open bus tickets for the rest of the journey. Feeling rather pleased with ourselves for getting the transport sorted, we did a little more venturing to get some much needed food down us, which consisted of more pho and fried noodles, and some local beer to wash those worries away... Refuelled and energetic, we made it back to the hotel and had a quick rest before heading out a little later for dinner. Wanting to keep the cost down, we found a food court in a shopping mall close to the main lake in the middle of Hanoi where we shared a rather large steamboat whilst listening to crazy Chipmunk music in the background. We also learned how to cross the road the Hanoi way by a lady who felt sorry for us, having stood by the roadside for about 5 minutes as the traffic was just too horrific! In Hanoi and elsewhere in Vietnam it's all about just walking at a steady pace across the road. This way the motorcyclists can just dodge around you as you walk on by! All in all, Hanoi was a city on speed and once you get used to the hustle and bustle, it's actually starts to grow on you a little. Not one for the faint hearted though, that's for sure.

Monday, 5 April 2010

Chaos at the airport and Hotel Civility, Hanoi, Vietnam: 6th Feb 2010

By the time we landed in Vietnam it was already 7pm in the evening and we were about to experience our first taste of the chaos that is Hanoi. When we went to the baggage carousel there seemed to be a dozen flights that had landed around the same time and, as a result, the fairly small arrivals hall somewhat resembled a market place with people shouting across the hall, kids running around and airport staff marching to and fro whenever the baggage carousels broke down (which happened quite often). We waited for almost 2 hours for our bags but apparently this was the norm in Hanoi airport i.e. no system is the way that their system worked!
Finally with backpacks to hand, we jumped into a local taxi and headed downtown to Hotel Civility, which we had booked online and looked quite decent on their website.
The journey into central Hanoi was an experience in itself. Evidently the way the traffic system worked was to use your horn as much as possible on the roads in order to warn other vehicles that you were coming through, and there was no stopping you. I have also never seen so many motorcycles on the roads before, and what was more incredible were the goods that people strapped onto the back of their bikes. Given that Chinese New Year was looming, there were 2 metre high mandarin trees and even a refrigerator strapped to the back of one bike! Malaysian traffic was starting to seem rather tame in comparison....
After what seemed like an eternity, we finally came up to a series of very tall, narrow buildings all built up right next to each other and lots more traffic. This could only signal that we were in the centre of town. Roads were windy, busy and motorbikes were swarming. We both held on for our lives even though we were sat in the safety of a car - it was that manic! Luckily we made it to our hotel in one piece and were greeted by the hotel staff, who took our bags and ushered us into the hotel. Really it wasn't anything like the website (some clever lighting going on there) and the staff all looked about 18 years old. When we were taken up to our room, up 7 flights of stairs (no joke), we thought that perhaps booking in advance was a mistake. Luckily the room turned out to be quite decent - it had hot water, a flat screen TV and aircon, so we happily agreed to stay for the next couple of nights. Bellies rumbling, we ventured down the road after quick showers and found an excellent French-Indochine restaurant where we devoured some pho (beef noodle soup) and fried rice. We also sampled our first local Vietnamese beer whose name I can't remember, but after a long day, it definitely washed the food down extremely well! With very little energy left, we decided to leave the exploring of Hanoi until the following day, and retired to bed in our room on the 8th floor (no elevators included).

7th Feb 2010:New Country number six.. Vietnam!

The next morning marked we were both feeling the excitement, both packing haphazardly and doing silly dances to mark our last day in Laos and what was about to be our sixth new country on Our Big Adventure. As far as killing time goes (our flight wasn't until mid afternoon), we did quite well and the highlight to note was the massive grilled fish that we ate in a roadside stall for the equivalent of about 4 pounds! Another 3 hours in a coffee shop sipping the cheapest filtered coffee that money can buy and then we were finally ready to head down to the airport. Me being my father's daughter, we made it to the airport in very good time, so good in fact that we had to wait another hour until we were actually allowed to check in! Nonetheless, we made it on that plane and off we went into the sunset. Good bye Laos and Good Evening Vietnam!

Monday, 29 March 2010

Vientiane - Laos, of all the hotels in all the world!! - 6th February 2010

Having suffered from an evening of nibbling at the hand of whatever creatures frequented the medieval beds in our downgraded hotel the day was to start with a new house hunt. Thankfully the 3 hours wandering on arrival in the dark was not necessary this time round and with my new appreciation for the layout of this small and relaxed city, I was able to find a replacement hotel within 30mins within the same price change and , cross fingers, devoid of bed bugs.

With the new hotel room key in hand I returned to the old digs (which also smelt of wet dog) picked up sleepy Alicia, and we headed down to the civilised bakery from the previous day for coffee and banana cake. Having checked in our bags we were just about to head off for some more exploring when we spotted some Mark and Lucy, some travelling buddies, at reception who had booked in to the room next to ours 10 minutes after us!. Now, I know this may not seem like a particularly interesting point in today's blog, but when you consider the circumstances of the meeting, it it actually deserves a mention.

We first met Mark and Lucy in a bar in Luang Prabang two weeks earlier and ended up getting very drunk and staying up till the wee hours of the morning with them. Although we got on very well, we were unable to make any plans to meet them again due to my illness and, at that stage neither of us new where we would be going next. We then randomly bumped in to them on our first evening in Ponsavan six-ish days later and three days after this in Vang Vieng were we went tubing with them. Neither of the last two times did we organise to meet them but ended up bumping in to them anyway. So you see, for them to check in to the room next to us, on the same day, in a Guest House with a 100 rooms and in a city with 1000 Guest Houses is rather a coincidence.

Once the shock of this chance encounter had subsided, we made plans Io meet them both for dinner and Alicia and I continued on our wander , which as mentioned in the previous blog means not really seeing very much. Needles to say we ended up at the strip your skin off chlorinated "Olympic" pool where we spent the day swimming whilst feeling your eyes bleed and sunbathing.

The late afternoon and evening heralded a day of True Blood season 2 watching (we had been carrying around the DVD in our rucksacks for two months waiting patiently for an opportunity to watch it having become well and truly addicted in Hong Kong) courtesy of the Guest Houses DVD player we rented.

4 episodes and a little sleep later it was time for dinner with Mark and Lucy. Following a long indecisive walk around town we ended up at the Indian restaurant from the following evening where gorged on yum yum spicy Indian food that would give any Brick Lane curry house a run for their money!!! The evening was concluded with a few bottles of crap/cheap red wine, music, good chat and cards back at the hotel room before retiring at an outlandish 3am!!!

Vientiane, Laos - 5th Feb 2010: Public pools and bowling alleys

Our first proper day in Vientiane turned out to be a lot better than expected! Initally, when you look at what to do in Vientiane you realise that, actually, there isn't much to do here. It's a small capital city, with few landmarks, some restaurants and lots of government looking buildings but not much else. Over breakfast at Jom Cafe (nice scandi bakery that seems to popular in South East Asia), we decided to firsly go out and buy our plane ticket to Hanoi for the following day. Unfortunately, seats on all planes were full so we had to stay one more day in Vientiane before we could head off to Hanoi. Once we got the ticket sorted, we decided to check out the local swimming pool, which I think was also the pool they use for national sporting events! It wasn't much to look at but it was 25 metres long and very heavily chlorinated, so at least we didn't have to worry about catching anything in the water! While we were sunbathing and swimming, we got chatting with a couple in their 50s who came from Chesterfield of all places, and the gentleman loved talking about how much they enjoy eating roti canai in KL. It was great to have some pool time, as it seemed to get hotter by the minute in Laos! Next stop was the local bowling alley, which looked like an alley that you'd find in a 60s film, quite old but pretty decent lanes and mainly frequented by local guys and girls. We donned our bowling shoes and Leon taught me how to bowl properly, at the age of 26! It becomes a much more exciting game when you actually start knocking the pins down(!) so we ended up playing 3 games and I think I even almost reached 100... almost...
After 3 games we thought that enough was enough, our arms were starting to hurt, so with our new-found energy we decided to walk down to a market in search of a headphone splitter! Once we were there we entered the labyrinth that was the market which sold everything from jade figurines to toasters, refrigerators and yes, our splitter. With our task fulfilled, we headed back to our hotel (a new one, as we needed to move to save money!) and had a rest before dinner. We ended up in a great Indian restaurant which was cheap, authentic and pretty spicy! To end the day, we took in some live music in the centre of town where we met another couple who were also on a round the world trip. It seems that this travelling thing was a band wagon that lots of people our age were jumping on, and after exchanging some stories over a few bevvies, we headed home, satisfied that we had actually been fairly active that day!